Category: Projects

  • Bikesnobbed!

    Friday on BikeSnobNYC, my pedal platforms were a featured answer to the Friday Fun Quiz. Thousands of hits. If you came from there, welcome!

    That was surprising. And fun. Of course I knew the answer.

  • Extremo pedal – the Very Large Deck platform pedal

    Extremo pedal – the Very Large Deck platform pedal

    You can buy these from me for $25/per pair, shipped, withOUT cleats. They’re drilled for Eggbeaters, which works for SPDs as well. Email me your request at philip@biketinker.com

    These are the biggest. For riding 10 minutes to work, I thought they were silly, but for hauling four hours over 35 miles of gravel, they worked great. The shoes are extremely flexible Borns, very soft and comfortable. I huffed and I puffed, but my feet held up great.

    They are marked R and L, but the R is on the left, and the L is on the right. What looks best isn’t always what feels best. These don’t seem that big in comparison to my size 12 feet, either. Maybe I should make an even larger pair , and call them the “molto extremo.” Maybe use an entire skateboard for each pedal.

    The whole point of these pedal platforms is so you can ride to the store on the same pedals you race cross in, but it’s gotten so I just like riding on such a big grippy surface that I’ve gone a little nuts.

  • 1988 Phil Wood BB

    1988 Phil Wood BB

    A watercolor over graphite painting of my 1988 Phil Wood bottom bracket, along with its original receipt from Mill Valley Cyclery. This ran in Dirt Rag magazine to promote its 20 year anniversary in 2008.

  • skeleto skate deck pedal in the rain

    Excellent grip in the wet; we didn’t encounter the right kind of friction-free mud to see if the holes helped with that. They certainly don’t hurt, and they look cool.

    These are prototypes made from (what appeared to be) unusable pieces of skateboard. Please forgive the unfinished hole-edges.

  • Skate deck pedal prototyping

    This weekend, I took a pretty rough pair of blanks and started messing around to see what I could do with them. This is a stopgap post to show what happens when I get distracted, and to work out a few ideas on the skate deck pedal design. Same thing, really.

    I drilled some 3/4 and 1″ holes to skeletonize the pedal tops and allow mudshedding. Street shoes and slippy Oregon mud make a pretty slippery combo on these pedals. I’ve experienced it twice in about five years, but I’d like a simple fix. I figure holes might work, or BMX pins.

    I also added angled screws as toe-flips to give the soles of my shoes some purchase in dragging them upright. I usually dig my foot underneath, and flip them over from the rear, which is the exact opposite of normal toe-clip behavior. Experienced cyclists who borrow my bikes seem have a freakishly hard time getting “into” the pedals. I’d like to devise a method that works with, rather than against, the learned behavior. New cyclists and people who grew up with clipless pedals may not have this problem.

    And I experimented in putting the cleat toward the front, instead of centered, in order to make the pedal hang more vertically, instead of upside-down. This should make it easier to kick the pedal flat, instead of having to hook it from the bottom.

    These address the two downsides of skate-deck pedals:

    1. Scuffing the toes of leather shoes by ‘flipping’ them from the back. I have dull spots on the tops of my shoes from flicking the pedals over from the back. The obvious answer is to remove a crescent of grip tape, but I wanted to try this out.
    2. Slick mud. Street shoes, slippy mud, and flat pedals are hard to ride. No one but an idiot (me) would get in that situation, but I wanted to see if big holes would vent the mud.

    Offset cleat:

    The offset cleat is nice. I can feel my toes hang over a bit, but it doesn’t bother me. Running them backwards (long in the front, short in the back) sucked, which was expected. I will make some extra-long inserts, since I like the extension under my foot, but could use some toe-support. For reference, my feet are size 12 (46.5 euro?).

    Toeflip:

    Eh. Works with the Borns, not the workboots. Really, the stiffer grease in the Candies vs the regular Eggbeaters makes it easier to get onto the pedal without flipping. The pedal doesn’t ‘swing’ as much, so it comes up flat at the top of the stroke.

    Big Holes:

    I like them. They may be a permanent feature. You can’t tell feel them, and they probably make the pedal a little lighter. I haven’t tested them in mud yet, but I don’t have high hopes there. Mud is mud.

    I like the way the four hole version looks, but not the three holes. The three-hole version looks like a screaming monkey face, and who needs that?

  • New blogs for old subjects

    I set up two new blogs, one for my portfolio and resume, and one for my bike tinkering stuff. I may just leave my unpalatable political philosophizing over here.

    www.PhilipWilliamson.com: my portfolio and resume. Stuff I’ve made over the last 20 years, professional and personal work from the last 20 years. PlayStation game console interfaces, toy store website design, assemblage sculptures, weird comics and more.

    www.BikeTinker.com: Me breaking stuff on my bike and having to fix it. I’d like to showcase people’s bike makeovers there, too. Maybe sell some bike-related kits or artwork.

    I also made a blog about my dog, but I haven’t put much time into it… I kind of went on a WordPress bender, there.

  • Mountain bikes with drop bars

    Mountain bikes with drop bars

    I’m a big fan of flared drop bars on mountain bikes. Any bike, really. These days, there are several to choose from, and more on the way.

    The trick with the off-road drops, is getting a stem that will get the bars high enough. Proper high-rise stems are less common than the bars that need them. My Bontrager has On-One Midge bars, but uses a kludged stem-and-extender setup to get the bars high enough.

    Winter Bicycles makes stems that fit the bill. The super-high-rise stem Eric made for a Fat Chance “Monster themed” bicycle looks like a perfect match for the Bontrager. Four-bolt face plate, extra tall, and with bike mojo.

    Read all about it.

     

  • Torpedo internals

    Torpedo internals

    The newly rebuilt and reinstalled wheel seems to be in high gear all the time, so I’ll have to pull it all apart again.

  • Hubstripping site is for sale

    The Hubstripping site is a great resource for learning about internal gear hubs, and connecting with people who can actually help you get one back on the road.

    It was a great resource for rebuilding the Sachs Automatic I bought on eBay. Through the comments section, I met very helpful people. One fellow had scanned the original maintenance poster and put it on Flickr, and Jens at Scheunenfun.de sold me a replacement driving ring after I broke the original. Where else can you get something like that?

    Apparently Marco has moved on to other things, and has put the site up for sale. I hope the new owners maintain and expand it. I wonder how much a site with 15,000 visitors a month goes for?

  • What is a Torpedo Automatic hub anyway?

    What is a Torpedo Automatic hub anyway?

    Ha.

    We’re glad you asked.

    Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo Automatic "blue" hub

    A Sachs (Fichtel & Sachs, or F&S) Torpedo Automatic is a two-speed internally geared hub. It’s like a Bendix kick-back, but German, and you don’t have to kick back. It changes gears automatically at a preset speed.

    At a certain speed, governed by a tiny spring, centrifugal force kicks out two brass “wings” inside the hub, and they engage the overdrive. About halfway across an intersection (7 to 10 mph), the high gear will kick in by itself, and you’ll suddenly be pedaling harder and going faster. It’s pretty perfect.

    The hub is incredibly cool, incredibly heavy, and really fun to ride. For me, the only downside is the coaster brake.

    The low gear is the direct drive (1:1), which means that when you’re cranking up a hill, you aren’t running through the gears. Everything’s locked together and you aren’t wasting any power on the transmission.

    The 1:1 low gear is why Bendix Blue-band kickback hubs are the most desirable ones. The Red and Yellow band Bendix hubs have high-gear as the direct drive. The Sachs hubs are regarded as better-built, more durable, and with a better coaster brake than the Bendix hubs.

    Speaking of which, similar hubs are the aforementioned Bendix kickbacks, Sachs Duomatic kick back hubs (like this Automatic, but you backpedal to change gears), and the new Sturmey-Archer (Sunrace) S2C. The SA S2C is the bargain deal, since you can get one for ~$65 brand new, and these Torpedos cost ~$160 shipped from Germany.

    As far as I know, the Sachs Automatic is the only two-speed hub ever invented that will shift for you.

    Sprockets are the widely available three-notch ones used on Shimano and Sturmey-Archer hub gears for the last million years. New ones run $8-$15, and can be ordered from your local bike shop.

    For more information on this, and internal gear hubs in general, visit the Hubstripping site. If you have a Duomatic or Automatic that needs parts, email hansen auf scheunenfun.de. He provided a replacement driving ring for this hub.

  • Gear ratios for Torpedo 2-speed hubs

    Figuring your gears is a little tricky with a two-speed hub that shifts by itself. The low gear is 1:1, the high gear is 1:1.36.

    The low gear is direct-drive. There’s no fussing; the gear you calculate on Sheldon’s gear calculator is the actual low gear. It is the 1:1 gear.

    The high gear is 36% larger. I plugged in larger cog sizes until I got ones about exactly 36% larger. I just noticed that Sheldon’s calculator will let you add fractional cogs!

    I’m a double idiot – I just noticed that Sheldon’s gear calculator lets you choose a “Sachs Duomatic / Automatic” hub in the Internal Gears dropdown. This way is a little easier to read, though.

    I have a 19t sprocket, and a 22t sprocket. I also have 39, 40 and 42 tooth chainrings I think might work for this project.

    The “high gear equivalent” for the 19t is 13.97 (let’s call it a 14). The “high gear equivalent” for the 22t sprocket is 16.18. Again, 16 is plenty close.

    With a 19t cog and a 39t chainring, I get a low gear of 56″ and a high of 76″

    39
    40
    42
    19t low
    56.1 57.5 60.4
    36.0 %
    high 76.3 78.2 82.1

    With a 22t cog and a 42t ring, I get my ideal setup:  52″ low and 71″ high gear.

    39 2.6 % 40 5.0 % 42
    22t low 48.4 49.7 52.2
    36.0 %
    high 65.9 67.5 70.9

    The Sachs Torpedo 2-speed gives a slightly wider ratio than my double fixed setups that use a 17/21 Surly dingle cog and a four-tooth chainring difference.

  • New F&S Driving Ring!

    A new driving ring for my Sachs Automatic hub!

    Last year I tried to get one of these to replace the one I broke. I contacted Jens Hansen at Scheunenfun.de, and got another ring, but it had 10-knobs, instead of 9. That was the first either of us knew that there were two styles.

    So… last week I emailed him again, to see if he’d encountered any 9-knob rings, and he had one. He was also willing to take Paypal, which is 10x cheaper than Moneygrams.

    Today the part arrived! I was so excited I went ahead and took the hub internals apart and replaced the broken piece. I’ll put up a post about the process in the next couple of days.

    So far it looks good – I’m just checking gear inches.

  • Magical Wheelism’s fantastic machines

    ferdinand (li’l red), originally uploaded by magical wheelism – corey todnem.

    Magical Wheelism, a Flickr contact of mine, draws the most beautiful bicycle machines. I love the way the drawings look, and I love the ideas behind the concepts (so to speak).

    Treadle-powered bikes, bike where you lie prone, bikes with baroque curlicues. Amazing and inspiring. The bikes speak for themselves.

    He says he’ll soon have a prototype built. He’s doing the mitering, brazing and painting himself. I think that’s really cool. Fabricating is when tinkering goes pro.

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  • New Words

    Bigly
    Smilable
    Motoristic (it means be-engined)